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Surfing is a Lesson in Letting Go

As summer winds to an end I can't help but be overcome with a feeling of gratitude for the beach, gratitude for California, and gratitude for the practice of surfing. Although California is one of the fastest-growing places in the world in terms of technology, population, and innovation, it still has pockets of beaches that serve as a getaway from all the noise and high-frequency vibrations of the growing city life.

While many people spend their time checking out the latest inventions, sharing on social media, and working to keep their minds busy, surfing provides a release so grand that locals prefer to label this practice a religious or spiritual occasion, rather than a sport.

This grand appreciation is intertwined with surf history, accounting for its expanse of myth, legend, and ritual.

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